Sea America Expedition - Part One

Summary of the West Coast

by Mike Falconeri
Urban Eskimo Kayaking

Taking on an adventure - a personal journey and purposeful expedition, whether it's short or long, glorious or subdued in its reward, is a long complicated process. A commitment has to be made and with commitment comes sacrifice. What do you need? What do you want? What can you take with you and what needs to be left behind?

The goal of achievement has to be very realistic and yet, impressive. You have to believe in your mission with a passionate desire and dismiss the ego and bragging rights to realize what you have left. Is it worth sacrificing your body, soul and emotions to accept success and in the same breath risk losing everything - time, money, or possibly your life.?

On July 2, 2000 I set out on the Sea America Expedition to be the first person to paddle a fully loaded (200 lbs) kayak down the West Coast, portage across the Southwest and put in the Gulf of Mexico then on up the East Coast of the United States. This is a solo venture and I'm traveling within the means of my kayak. There's no ground support, sails or kites to help me along and the budget is slim at best.

Traveling on a slim budget eliminates some luxuries like eating out and staying in motels. (This is one of the hardest rules to abide by!) Even on a slim budget (no sponsors) I have some of the best gear and equipment that money can buy.

On the Water

Unpredictable weather forced me to adapt to whatever "Mother Ocean" and the "Kayak Gods" handed me. I chose this time of year with the seasonal forecast in mind. My previous attempt of the Northwest Coast in October 1999 proved to be quite a learning experience. It helped me sort out certain things of the expedition that would prove to be beneficial.

The night before leaving on the expedition was interesting, as well as, entertaining. My friend, Des, and I were treated to Native American ceremonial dancing and song. We enjoyed eating elk and other native foods. It was approaching Independence Day and fireworks were the order of the day to celebrate the 4th and Chief Tahola Day as well.

Des and I were welcome to use the recreation center for final preparations and sleep for the night. We were up early, although I don't think Des or I slept at all. Visions and flashbacks of last year's experiences played in my mind and I realized that once I left this safe place anything could and would happen. I kept thinking about the nights that I sat miserably cold and wet while waiting for the tide to change so I could sleep for the rest of the night assured I wouldn't be washed into the cliffs.

The time was here. I said my good-byes and was ready. I didn't feel the same sadness that I felt last year. I felt mentally prepared. I felt a confidence coming from inside me and from Desmond as well.

As I paddled away I looked back once more and saw Desmond, Ken and Larry on the beach. They were sending me off with all the hope and good luck they could give. I turned to wave once more and then faced my new venture and challenge - the open sea and the Sea America Expedition.

Paddle Time

The fact that I'm totally exposed to the sea at all times and knowing that the seas are generally bigger than I'm used to I set a conservative yet productive schedule. I calculate the use of 20 nautical mile days. This kind of mileage would conserve my energy and not force me into poor landing areas with the risk of damaging equipment or injury. This strategy turned out to be a good judgement call from the beginning.

Two things happened: I. I became stronger and a little smarter. 2. The kayak got lighter as I used up the food and water. One early mistake I made just before starting the trip seemed like a good idea at the time, but ended up being one of those things you know you shouldn't do but you do it anyway. Yes, my friends...changing equipment just before leaving without testing it first. I figured a kayak with a little more volume and storage space would ride much higher in the water with the same amount of gear that I planned to carry in the original kayak.

The sea conditions tore this kayak apart. This weighted kayak was very vulnerable to the tossing and bending conditions it received. The handling characteristics of the hull were detrimental to my reaching the mileage goals. After two or so weeks, I threw in the towel. I needed my original kayak! Des agreed to drive to Newport, Oregon to make the change. Now, with the original kayak I lightened the load by 40 pounds (+ -) of "stuff' that I realized I didn't need. The result from the switch made significant changes.

The smaller cockpit meant less bailing and easier chart riding. Not having to fight for directional control saved energy and meant longer days and more mileage with less effort. Things were beginning to look real good. Twenty nautical miles were turning into 23 - 25 nautical mile days on the average. I got crunched in the surf a little more with this kayak but, at least, it wouldn't break as easily. I knew my technique with the surf would continue to improve.

Fog, Fog, And Fog Monsters

It's one thing paddling in the fog.....but everyday? The Northwest shoreline has to be a depressing place to live. Of course, this is just my opinion, but - man, when do you get to see the sun? The fog is a serious threat to kayakers. It's not about getting lost, it's about being undetectable to other boats. I found that the surf was often big and breaks so far off shore that it created a safe barrier for kayaking. I traveled just beyond the breaker zone. Most of the time I couldn't see the shore but I could hear the surf crashing on it. It gets the heart pounding when you're paddling with a fishing boat to one side of you and a 6-8 foot wall of dumping water to the other side while keeping an eye on the compass.

It amazed me at the things seen in the fog. ...tall pirate ships, houses, elephants and all kinds of sea monsters. The majority of my paddling was done in these conditions and I developed a system for paddling in these conditions that worked well.

Smashing Land Into Shoreline Sculpture

The shoreline of the West Coast in some places is very rugged and unforgiving. Once you got into shore you wanted to kiss the sand in thanks for being alive. It also left you in awe of its changing beauty, both sight and sound. When the fog cleared you were gifted with a breathtaking view of a shoreline that constantly changed before your very eyes. The shoreline from Washington down to San Diego was different in various ways. I rarely saw a section that resembled anther. Perhaps because paddling was slow travel I had more time to pick out the subtle differences.

Although mileage was a concern, there were days that interesting features would draw me in towards the shore. There was always time to explore. I loved paddling through the caves and arches that were scattered throughout the West Coast. A whole day could be spent tunneling in and out of caves. Some caves connected to others and at times lead to nice, calm, sandy cove beaches. I marked some of these places on my charts and vowed to return for closer exploration.

The kayak was such a great little vessel for getting close to these magnificent sites. It had very little to no impact on the sea or it's shore. Without the noise of a motor, it enabled me to more closely observe sea critters everywhere. My kayak had taken me to places I'd never dreamed of going to or seeing. The more my skills and knowledge of the sea developed, the farther I'd be able to go.

Setbacks, Disasters And Just Another Day

Any expedition or adventure of this sort was bound to have some kind of setbacks or mishaps. This trip wouldn't be any different. Although I don't put these incidents in the disaster category -they were issues of concern. Some of these eye openers came from the forces of nature. My kayak was pounded in the big surf of Washington and Oregon. The other "events" took the form of human delinquency - my kayak and all my gear were stolen. My kayak was returned a couple of days later, ..empty, ..no gear. This was one of many things that happened as I paddled down the coast. These things brought strength and belief to my trip. Overcoming obstacles was and would be a big part of this expedition.

Repairs And Modifications

Repairing my kayak was not that big a deal and I knew I would be doing quite a few of them. The kayak was very simple in design; nothing mechanical - no rudders or skegs. The repairs that had to be made were mostly patching, fixing cracks or wear spots from dragging the loaded kayak up and down the beach.

The modifications made to it were basically to strengthen areas that were more prone to damage or wear. Other modifications were to change some of the handling characteristics.

Critters Of The Sea

The sea life and wild life was abundant. I saw everything from puffins to 60 foot whales. At times these critters came so close it seemed that I could touch them.. Others I wanted to be as far away from as possible.

The sea was amazing in the way it supported and was depended upon by so many life forms. The sea gave life, but it also took it away. At times it was sad to see how things worked in this environment. Animals died, got eaten, fought and all I could do was paddle on and watch the drama as it unfolded before my eyes.

It was amazing to see the size of some of these critters. Some were so big, yet seemingly harmless. They came so close that I could look them right in the eyes. I could actually smell certain species when I approached an area where they were hanging out.

The wild life wasn't just on the water. There was plenty of it on land too. I found many different kinds of prints on the sandy beaches while setting up my camp. The animals were curious to see what just made a home in their territory. A lot of these animals were nocturnal. I saw bears, eagles and woke up to the sounds of seals grunting and growling. They had "pulled up", on shore during the night and made their "beds" next to my tent. I'm sure they thought, "There goes the neighborhood".

Support And Sponsors

Even though it's a solo paddle, there are still a lot of people involved in making it happen. I didn't get any funding from outside sponsors so I used what I had. Whatever I didn't have was backed by Nancy Lovelace, my friend and business partner. Her financial support made the whole thing happen ( I do have to pay her back). She continues to offer moral support throughout my expedition.

Desmond Harrington, my long time friend and paddle partner, has also been playing a big part in this expedition. Desmond dropped me off at the start and picked me up at the finish of the West Coast. Desmond drove to Oregon so I could change kayaks and brought spare gear to Eureka CA when my "stuff" was stolen. He also took care of my truck since I didn't have a place to leave it in CA while I was gone. (I haven't decided if this was a good or bad thing.) The moral support and the motivational speeches that came from this man makes Vince Lombardi seem dull.

 Inspirational quotes as "I'm not coming back here unless it's a real emergency", or "Don't worry about sharks, just keep paddling and don't look down". Who'd ever forget "I should be able to claim you as a tax write-off by now". Ah yes, that's my pal - ya gotta love him.

Next are the guy's that handles promotional activities and raise sponsorship. Again, good friends of mine, Ron Perry (MGM Marketing) and Brian Bach (Bach Associates). These are a few of the many people in a growing list as the expedition continues.

A big environmental awareness program that's joined the Sea America Expedition is The American Oceans Campaign. Raising interest for the protection of our oceans and shorelines is not an easy task for SAE alone. Environmental issues need people with a passion and desire to make something happen.

The American Ocean Campaign has been involved in many of the top environmental issues of today. Together, SAE and AOC are trying to make a difference in the fixture of our environment.

Environmental Conditions

The West Coast is a beautifully scenic coastline. It has everything....fine sandy beaches, towering pinnacle laden rocky coastlines to miles of steep inaccessible sea cliffs. We see these things in photographs, books and travel shows on television. The things that we don't see are the things that need to be seen. Beer companies and coffee companies spend millions on advertising to get exposure for their products. They really don't need the help of recreational fisherman and beach goers throughout the coast. I'll never understand why some people can't make the 25 foot walk to a garbage pail and throw their garbage away.

I know this is a small problem compared to the contamination of waters that shut beaches down along the coast. (That's, of course, the waters that are monitored.) How many other areas are in the same condition and we just don't know it? As humans we have the choice to not go in the water. Sea life doesn't have that choice. This sea life is directly affected by our impact and lifestyles. I'm not pointing a finger nor verifying by pure facts, however, I do have two good eyes and a keen sense of awareness to form these opinions.

I hope that by sharing my encounters with the environment, people will want to become involved with the solutions. Whether it's through my writings, guided trips or slide shows, if I reach one person who wants to make a difference - my goal will be reached.

"What Condition My Condition Is In"

An excerpt from an old 60's tune was ringing through my head. Keeping in check of my physical and mental condition plays a big part in this expedition. Paddling long distances for days on end takes a lot out of you. I really have to listen to what my body is telling me. Some days it's outright physical fatigue that sets in and I have to rest. Other days it could be a psychological condition that I can't talk myself out of. Trying to keep everything at an even keel works the best. Towards the end of the West Coast I started pushing real hard. I consistently started making 30 - 35 miles a day. The problem was when I finally hit the wall I really felt it. I looked back at some of my notes and decide to make adjustments for the next leg, the Gulf of Mexico.

Some of the physical breakdowns that became issues were open wounds or lacerations from rubbing equipment or unprotected skin. This happened when I was in the lower part of California. Southern California greeted me with warm water and air temperatures. This was nice for comfort and my tan, but I wasn't paddling with my Tech Tour jacket (Kokatat expedition top). The nylon inner waist piece of the jacket tucked into the tunnel of my neoprene spray skirt and prevented the abrasion of my hips. Without the jacket I developed a number of cuts around my waist. The cuts were in such a vulnerable area that I had to take a few days off for them to heal. Lucky for me I was within a day's paddle of Huntington Beach where an old friend, Al Wickstrand, lives. Al is like a brother to me. We grew up together, worked together and raced motorcycles together. It was nice to look at old pictures and reminisce while my cuts healed so I could paddle the last three days of the first leg - the West Coast.

After this brief rest I complied the California Coast in 2 1/2 days. I found my recovery time was less then when I first started the expedition. As my physical stamina increased so did my mileage. This gave me more days off without running behind my set schedule. One of my concerns and the question most asked, "What about your lower body?' I had thought about this long before I started this trip. I've done a lot to remedy this problem and other than an old hamstring injury everything seems to be well balanced.

The mental aspect was (is) a very big part of this trip. As mentioned earlier in this summary a lot of sacrifices had to be made and emotions made a big difference. I kept pretty well intact in this area. I missed my family, friends and activities and tried to keep in touch as much as possible. It amazed me how a simple (but expensive) phone call would brighten my day. I kept my morale up by self-motivated talks, pep talks from friends or family members and Desmond's truly inspirational quote, "Motivate or Die".

Aren't you scared? Don't you think that you might get killed? Are you crazy? These were the most commonly asked questions. To say that I'm not scared, don't think about dying or think that I may be crazy would be a lie. The ocean is one of the most powerful forces on earth. It can change on you in a moment. It can leave you in a situation that you can only have nightmares about. I'd been in fear of the West Coast since I started this expedition and problems did occur that could have been fatal. Fear kept me conservative enough to be alive. As for being crazy, well....I haven't quite decided on that yet.

Looking Back And Ahead

I completed the West Coast on September 20, 2000 - exactly on schedule. There wasn't a big celebration or anything. I had a tour of Sea World and had to sweat out a hotel stay because of lack of funds. I haven't really sat back to reflect on the trip so far. The expedition is far from over, however, I think the toughest part is. I still have a lot to think about concerning the next two legs, the Gulf of Mexico and the East Coast.

There are so many things that will have to be mentioned later. I've been journaling everyday in three different journals. The people I met and things I have seen will be unforgettable. I still remember the names and faces of everyone. Ken, Larry and Wild Bill from Tahola to Dave, Burly and Angela in Oregon. These are just a few folks of an endless list who helped me carry my kayak up the beach to just having a beer and sharing stories. I'm sure that someday some of us will meet again.

As far as conditions of the ocean and shorelines, I definitely have some questions in my mind searching for some answers. I'm glad that most of the West Coast people have a genuine concern for the conditions of their ocean (environment). I think that maybe tourists have to be taught how to leave less of an impact in their travels. Impact doesn't always come in the form of bottles, cans or garbage. Overcrowding a small public beach or park can be a hassle for everyone, especially for the people who get one day a week to spend with their families. What I'm trying to state here is learn to be a visitor and not a tourist.

I've completed one part of a journey. Some of my motivation was personal challenge. It wasn't about building ego, (I've got plenty of that) or becoming rich and famous. It was to succeed at something that involved a lot of hurdles and variables, but I also wanted to share my experiences with others just as they would share with me. I hope my dreams and visions will reach people and they then might develop and follow their own dreams and visions. I'm concerned about the ocean and it's environment. By paddling around the coastal United States I hope to bring attention to the problems and be a part of the solutions for this concern. I'm trying to be the best human being I can possibly be - one person trying to make a difference.

With the help of The American Oceans Campaign, the continued moral support of my family and friends and eventual financial support from outside sponsors, I'm looking forward to sharing my trip and my concerns with all those interested. Until then I'll be paddling my way around the Gulf Coast for the second leg of the Sea America Expedition.

Mike Falconeri

Sea America Expedition

Urban Eskimo Kayaking